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Fur for thought: How Covid has killed the fur industry

Mink caged at a Swedish fur farm
black and white short fur cat

You may question who and why people are still buying fur; it seems that the industry is old-fashioned and unsought after in this day and age. Faux fur is everywhere, and the love for animals never dies, especially now. The first lockdown caused a significant rise of pet adoptions, according to Pets at Home, which saw a sharp sales rise.

However strong the stigma against fur seems, the industry has still been able to thrive in previous years. The Fur Information Council of America recorded the world's total fur retail sales in 2019 amounted to around €22 billion. Sales may have been in a slow decline over the years, but the industry is far from dead.

Well, until now, that is. The coronavirus pandemic has had a significant effect on the industry in Europe following outbreaks at fur farms across Denmark.

The country is known for being the world's biggest mink producer and farms, with up to 17 million of them in the name of 'fashion'. The outbreaks lead to an announcement from Prime Minister Mette Frederiksen, where he announced "a mass culling" of millions of minks.

The slaughters were described as "necessary," as Denmark officials called it a "reservoir" of disease, which could pose a considerable health risk for the human population. Potential mutations found in mink-related strains of the virus could also prevent the success of any future vaccine. The Danish government proposed a ban on mink farming until 2022. Negotiations are being dragged out as the ban will cause 6,000 job losses.

The fur trade was flourishing just a decade ago; with Chinese incomes growing, a demand for luxury goods grew with it, and the love for fur was apparent as China became the biggest fur importer. Kopenhagen Fur, the world's largest fur auction house, sold a staggering £1.5bn of furs in 2013, with mink production worth £3.2bn globally.

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Despite its success and a freeze in fur production caused by the pandemic, the industry has been suffering for years before. In 2019, multiple luxury brands announced how they were stamping out the sale of fur products.

Prada, Macy's, and others joined brands such as Chanel and Burberry to remove any animal fur in their clothing lines. The same year also saw an increase of vegan products by a substantial 258 per cent within the UK and US markets.

With the fur aesthetic still being a huge influence and desire in fashion, brands and retailers are increasingly providing faux fur products. This also comes with the rise of vegan leather as countless brands have also banned exotic skins like crocodile and snake. A recent poll of 2,000 people from the UK and US indicated that two-thirds of British adults and 47 per cent of US adults view fur as "inappropriate material".

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Animal welfare groups say the pandemic is further proof of why the fur industry should be shut down, as well as the unethical practices it involves. Dr Joanna Swabe from the Humane Society International told the BBC, "Fur farms are not only the cause of immense and unnecessary animal suffering, but they are also ticking time bombs for deadly diseases."

In recent years, after countless protests and animal welfare campaigns, the fur industry's reality has been exposed and caused public opinion to change drastically. As well as the lack of demand due to the rise in faux fur, there seems to be no need for fur production- in Europe.

The UK placed a ban on fur production in 2003, with Austria, Germany and Japan following the same footsteps with wiping out the fur. Clearly concerned and desperate to boost sales, many fur industry associates are now marketing fur as a 'sustainable option', compared to faux fur, which is still mostly made of synthetic materials, including polyester or modacrylic.

This might seem hypocritical as animal farming raises larger environmental issues such as greenhouse gas emissions. Of course, the use of faux fur is much more ethical in terms of animal welfare.

The whirlwind of 2020 saw many changes in societal infrastructures; businesses had to adapt to the new way of life until things go 'back to normal'- whenever that is.

Fashion has been affected just as much as any other industry, though some people may see the decline in fur as one of the very few positive outcomes from the pandemic. Still, it's a massive market in China, and demand is still alive. Will fur farming be killed off for good one day? We will have to see.

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Women founders continue to come up against common challenges and biases

Written by Kelly Devine, Division President UK & Ireland, Mastercard

Starting a business may have historically been perceived as a man’s game, but this couldn’t be further from reality. Research shows women are actually more likely than men to actively choose to start their own business – often motivated by the desire to be their own boss or to have a better work-life balance and spend more time with their family.

The recently published Mastercard Index of Women Entrepreneurship 2021 found that in the category of 'Aspiration Driven Entrepreneurship’ – capturing those who actively choose to start their own business – women in the UK surpass men: 60% vs 56%. And Mastercard research from February 2022 found 10% of female business owners started their business in the past two years compared to 6% of men – meaning women were 67% more likely to have started a business during the pandemic.

Yet, there are common challenges that women founders continue to come up against - not least the gender imbalance in the household and long-held biases which are still prevalent.

In the UK, women are almost three times more likely to be balancing care and home commitments than men, and this was exacerbated during the pandemic as the additional barriers of school closures and lockdowns meant that the care time of dependents rose significantly on a day-to-day level for women. In addition, women were less likely to have access to a home office, greatly impacting the work they were able to accomplish when working from home was the only option.

It's also widely known that female business owners are still more likely to struggle to access funding for their business ideas. According to Dealroom, all-women founding teams received just 1.4% of the €23.7bn invested into UK start-ups in 2021, while all-male leadership teams have taken almost 90% of the available capital.

Without financial support, and when juggling significant time pressures both at home and at work, how can women grow their companies and #BreaktheBias (as this year’s International Women’s Day termed it)? What tools or support can save them time and money, and give them the headspace they need to focus on building their business?

With female owned businesses collectively estimating revenue growth of £120 billion over the next five years, solving this problem is bigger than supporting women – it’s about supporting the national economy.

Using tech to level the playing field

There are clearly societal issues at play that need to be resolved. But when we look at the rise in technology businesses during the pandemic, we can plainly see an alternative source of support critical for business growth: digital tools.

A third of female business owners say new technologies will be crucial to the success of their business in the future and one in five say it is the most important thing for business growth.

With new technology comes new ways to pay, create, and work. And yet there are barriers that prevent business owners accessing this technology. Women are significantly more likely to say they want to use more digital tools but don’t know what is best for their business and also more concerned about the security of digital tools.

When technology is adopted by businesses – whether using online accounting solutions or messenger services for communicating with staff – it saves them time, allows them to maintain and grow their customer base, and ultimately increases cost savings and profit.

By drastically improving the training and support that is available to women-owned business to access and utilise technology we will allow these businesses to grow and succeed. And we know there is demand for it.

Research done by the IFC and Dalberg shows that female entrepreneurs are more likely to invest time and money in business development. This includes product development, customer base expansion, and digital tools and training and there are plenty of services available offering this type of support – many of them for free.

One such programme is Strive UK – an initiative of the Mastercard Center for Inclusive Growth – which aims to reach 650,000 micro and small business owners across the UK and empower them with the tools they need to thrive in the digital economy through free guidance, helpful tools and one-to-one mentoring.

Working together with small business experts – Enterprise Nation, Be the Business and Digital Boost – we hope to ensure hundreds of thousands of UK female business owners have the tools they need to succeed and reach their ambitious goals. Because this ambition remains strong in the UK, with female business owners largely optimistic about the future despite the multitude of challenges they are facing. Four in ten say they will grow their business in the next five years – compared to only a third of male business owners – and they’re also 35% less likely than men to say they plan to downsize or close the business.

But if we do not empower female entrepreneurs to access the tools and technology they need to grow, there is a risk this optimism could be misplaced. Support programmes that provide business owners with guidance and mentorship can help ensure this isn’t the case, allowing female entrepreneurs to not only survive but thrive in the months and years ahead.